It's obvious that picking the right piercer is very important. Without a good piercer you won't get a good piercing. They have all the knowledge needed to make the procedure safe and sterile. But a thing that not many think about - even though it's just as important, or maybe even more important than a good piercer - is the jewelry that is used for the piercing. A lot of things go into picking out good quality jewelry and your piercer should know all about it - the types, the metals, the potential allergies. But since we do not live in a perfect world and my blog is mostly a way to help the piercees avoid dodgy piercers - I will share all the knowledge I possibly can in this blog post.
Body piercing types
Let’s begin with the most common types of body piercing jewelry that you can get pierced with (also called basics).
Now when it comes to the way the jewelry post connects to the top it’s a little more simple. There are three most common designs.
Internally threaded jewelry is the industry standard. It has a thread on the piercing top and it screws into the post. When inserting it only the smooth polished post will go through the piercing channel making it less likely to cause trauma. This is the only type of thread that I pierce with or sell on my shop.
Externally threaded jewelry is the opposite - the thread is on the post and the ball screws onto it. It’s way more traumatic for a healed piercing - don’t even get me started on fresh ones. Most studios stoped using this design a long time ago.
Threadless jewelry, also known as press fit, is the “newest” style, invented in 1997 by Neometal. While more popular in the United States, I have been seeing some piercers use it here in Lithuania. It has all the pros of internally threaded jewelry, but no thread - it’s made so when the pin on the top bends during insertion it creates tension and stays secure. From experience I can say that it’s a little bit of a learning curve - if the pin ends up not bending it will be able to fall out easily. Other than that it really is a great choice.
For rings there are a few options - most common ones being hinged clicker rings - they open up with a hinge and click back into place (my preferred choice because of how easy they are to insert, which is great not only for me but also for my clients) and captive bead rings (CBR). As much as I would love to use them I know how hard it would be for my clients to remove and put back in if needed. Even though it is possible to put them in by hand, they usually require special tools. Another ring option that would like to (not so honourably) mention is continuous rings. I don’t see them a lot, but when I do - it’s always a disaster. Because of the gap that the ring leaves the piercing tends to close in the middle. Then it becomes impossible to move it and you have to take pliers and spread it open so it gets removed from both sides of the piercing. Don’t wear them. Just don’t.
Body safe materials
When talking about metals used in body jewelry, the amount of options available makes it hard to know what to pick. What makes it even harder is the fact that not all metals are created equal - their quality and properties can vary even when from the first glance it’s the same thing. That’s why we have certificates. The quality of the jewelry is determined by the International Society for Testing and Materials Standard (ASTM) and/ or the International Standards Organization (ISO).
Surgical steel: usually the steel jewelry that I see people buy is cheap and not safe for initial or healed piercings, but if it’s ASTM F-138; ISO 5832-1; ISO 10993-(6,10, or 11) compliant - you’re good to go.
Titanium: this is what I sell and pierce with. Titanium is nickel free and great for people with metal allergies. If it’s ASTM F-136, ASTM F1295, ASTM F-67 or ISO 5832-3 compliant - it’s safe to get pierced with and wear.
Gold: if it’s 14k or higher - it’s completely safe for piercings, but from 18k up - it becomes too soft. Gold coated jewelry is also not safe for fresh piercings, because it can scratch and chip.
Silver: I often get asked about this metal and as much as I love it - it’s not safe for body piercings (unless it’s healed lobes and only for short periods of time). Silver jewelry usually contains other metals (including nickel) - they can tarnish, stain and irritate your skin. Silver is also a soft metal so it scratches easily creating a nice and comfy spot for bacteria.
Other materials safe for fresh and healed piercings include niobium, platinum and glass, but they are very uncommon in Lithuania (in fact I have not seen them used here ever).
Body piercing jewelry sizing
One of the most common things I hear is “I’d like to buy jewelry, but I’m not sure about the size”. I try to tell each client about the size of their jewelry and future options when I pierce them, but I know it’s hard to remember and some piercers don’t give this information at all. I always say it’s best to book an appointment and come into the studio - not only will it be easier to pick out jewelry, but then you’ll know your correct size for the future. If you’re very DIY or just live far away from any piercers, here’s the basic things you need to know to measure and estimate your jewelry size:
Length: Measure the length of the jewelry excluding the base of the post or any attached tops. For externally threaded jewelry, exclude the threads. For curved barbells, measure in a straight line between the attachments, not along the curve.
Diameter: Measure the widest part of the ring.
Thickness is very hard to measure if you don't have a calliper. If you didn't get told the size you got pierced with - it's best to come to a piercer and find out. For my clients I do nipples, bridges, genital piercings, industrials, tongues, dahlias and navels with 14G - 1,6mm and the rest, unless we decide to go bigger together, is done with 16G - 1,2mm.
If you’re measuring a piercing that doesn’t currently have a ring in, it will be harder. Try to measure from the piercing hole to the place where the bottom of the ring will rest - for nostrils it’s the bottom of the nostril, for conch piercings - side of the ear, etc.
If your piercing is too long and you’re looking to downsize, the best way would be to measure the part that is sticking out while it’s still in the piercing. This is probably the trickiest of all if you’re trying to get a perfect fitting bar. Again - try to visit us in the studio when possible and only change your piercings yourself when they are completely healed.
Jewelry care
My piercing aftercare guide is available for my clients after their appointment, but what about jewelry aftercare? Even if your piercings are healed you still have to clean them. Your skin sheds, you wear make up, your hair gets caught in them, gunk appears from time to time. If you want to keep your piercings happy and jewelry clean all you need to do is clean it with a mild soap and water. The way I take care of mine if very simple - I do so in the shower when I wash my hair. And my facial piercings get cleaned during my skincare routine. When doing so, I’ve never had a problem with a healed piercing - unless it was because of trauma.
If you realise that your jewelry looks very dirty and nothing is working - you can come into the studio for a cleaning - we will take care of it!
Whether it's choosing the right size, knowing the best materials for your skin, or understanding how to clean different types of piercings, every detail matters. I hope this guide has helped you learn about even more nuances of the piercing world and pushed you to make informed choices! And remember, my studio is always here to assist you, whether it’s for selecting the perfect piece, finding the right fit, or providing professional services.